SMH Good Food Guide 2012

It’s hard to imagine Berry without this landmark local charmer. The rustic setting, the smell of baking sourdough, and the fresh regional produce used simply and assuredly by the cafe kitchen make this a must-stop for Sydneysiders, and a favourite around these parts.

From a delicious bircher muesli, goat’s cheese omelette or flaky croissant in the morning, to duck and pear salad or sirloin sandwiches at lunch, this place rarely gets it wrong.

It dresses for dinner, too, with dimmed lighting, soft music and assured service, as former 3 Weeds chef John Evans serves up seasonal, simple and local fare with a French accent. Crisp pork scratchings come with pork rillettes; and a pickled beetroot salad with mozzarella is a pretty and delicate dish.

The wood-fired ovens are put to good work for mains such as roasted blue-eye with mussel barigoule, and roasted chicken breast with salty chorizo and perfect polenta. For dessert, meringue, mascarpone and rosewater jelly is simple, light and heavenly.

Score 14.5/20

Hours: Wed—Sun 8am-4pm; Thurs—Sat 6-10pm
Typical prices: E $19 M $33 D $15; breakfast $12, lunch $20
Cards: AE V MC Eftpos
Wine: Small, confident list; 10 by the glass; BYO (corkage $10 a bottle)
Chefs: John Evans & Warwick Noble
Owners: Jelle & Freya Hilkemeijer
Seats: 50; wheelchair access; outdoor seating

Kid friendly
www.berrysourdoughcafe.com.au

And… grab a white sourdough (levain blanc) to take away