SMH Good Food Guide 2011

The aroma of freshly baked bread from the wood-fired oven is the first of several pleasures that greet you in this warm country cafe. Add relaxed service, rustic charm and easy French music crooning in the background, and it’s little wonder the regulars stream in continuously for breakfast and lunch.

The cafe kitchen has that lovely art of doing very little to the freshest produce, keeping interest high and prices reasonable. Start the day by warming up with a coffee and a flaky croissant, or plan a picnic with gourmet sandwiches and pies. Classic duck confit comes paired with soft pillows of ruby beetroot gnocchi that melt in the mouth, accented by crunchy macadamias. Braised lamb shoulder is good country cooking, the meat jus tinged with rosemary and thyme.

And being a bakery, they know just what to do with leftover bread: turn it into a light bread-and-butter pudding, of course, served with poached pears and cinnamon-dusted double cream.

Score 14.5/20

Hours: Breakfast Wed—Sun 8-11.30am; Lunch Wed—Sun 11.30am-3pm
Bill: Breakfast $5—$16.50, Lunch $6—$25 D $10; 10% surcharge on public holidays
Cards: AE V MC Eftpos
Wine: BYO (corkage $6 a bottle)
Chef: Caroline Read
Owners: Jelle & Freya Hilkemeijer
Seats: 58; wheelchair access; outdoor seating

Kid friendly: Kids’ menu; highchairs; toys

And… pick up freshly baked sourdough and a house-made jam on the way out

Please note that since this review was published the Berry Sourdough Café serves dinner.