SMH Good Food Guide 2010

What did Berry do before Jelle and Joost came to town? Not only is their range of sourdough bread, pastries and tarts the best in the region by a country mile, their breakfast and lunch are a must for any passer-by.

This reinvigorated silo space, complete with an open loft where flour is now stored, has been revamped with new leather banquettes and plenty of seating inside and out. The warm, yeasty smell of baking sourdough makes it impossible to leave without sitting down for a satisfying meal.

Try rich scrambled eggs with chorizo, or a light goat’s cheese omelette with cherry tomatoes, served with the signature bread. The ever-changing lunch menu features local produce, and can be as fresh and light as gnocchi with tomatoes, ricotta and peas, or substantial bistro fare such as sirloin with cafe de paris butter and fries.

To finish, or indeed for afternoon tea, nothing compares to the glorious chocolate espresso cake.

Score 14/20

Hours: Breakfast Wed—Sun 8-11.30am; Lunch Wed—Sun 11.30am-3pm

Bill: Breakfast $5—$14.50, Lunch $15—$22 D $9; 10% surcharge on Sundays & public holidays

Cards: V MC Eftpos

Wine: BYO (corkage $5 a bottle)

Chefs: Glenn Parkes & Simon Edwards

Owners: Jelle & Joost Hilkemeijer

Seats: 52; wheelchair access; outdoor seating

Child friendly: Kids’ meals; highchairs; toys

And… check the fridge for house-made dips to spread on your sourdough

Please note that since this review was published the Berry Sourdough Cafe serves dinner.