SMH Good Food Guide 2009

If human cloning becomes possible, we’d nominate Joost and Jelle Hilkemeijer as first candidates because every country town deserves a sourdough bakery as wonderful as this.

Come early (but not too early, because the brioche might still be in the wood-fired oven) for divine croissants, pastries, scrolls, mini-pizzas and tarts. One bite explains why they sell out so quickly.

On weekends, the front verandah is packed with brunchers munching fruit toast over great coffee, or perhaps a goat’s cheese omelette.

Lunch options are homely, rustic and boldly flavoured, from fine duck rillettes to roast onion, fetta, olive and pesto pizzetta. The bouillabaisse sings of the sea; however, veal saltimbocca was a little overwhelmed by its lemon sauce. Chocolate espresso cake is wickedly opulent, its excess spurred on by warm chocolate sauce. If you can’t have the luscious brioche bread and butter pudding because the chef has left early, grab a takeaway version for home.

Score 13/20

Hours: Breakfast Wed-Sun 8-11.30am; Lunch Wed-Sun 11.30am-3pm

Bill: Breakfast $5-$13, Lunch $12-$22 D $10; 10% surcharge on Sundays & public holidays

Cards: V MC Eftpos

Wine: BYO (corkage $4.40 per bottle)

Chef Glenn Parkes

Owners: Jelle & Joost Hilkemeijer

Seats: 45; wheelchair access; outdoor seating

Child friendly: Highchairs

And… great breads to take home, plus gourmet and organic goodies, too

Please note that since this review was published the Berry Sourdough Cafe serves dinner.